Fashion Commentary

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New York: Catwalk-Trends Autumn Winter 2011-12



Over The Rainbow

Fur went over the rainbow this season as designers opted for recoloured dyed effects to bring a fashion lift to the simplest silhouettes. It marks a new found confidence and sense of optimism within the market, bringing a playful more youthful slant into play. These colourful looks don't replace classic furs, rather they should be seen as fashion pieces that would appeal to a more fashion forward customer.

The Cape

Capes have been under the fashion radar for several seasons now and finally hit the mainstream for autumn/winter 2010-11 as a key best seller for the junior and contemporary market. We still see plenty of mileage in capes for next winter, looking doubly luxurious and cocooning worked in plush touch furs or with statement fur trims on a woven body.

Casual Fur

A strong trend from the New York runways, as silhouettes start to loosen up and fur moves into a more casual mode for everyday lifestyles with highly wearable wardrobe staples like the biker, the parka and the duffle becoming the hot items du jour. Work the look in textured fur combinations or use the contrast of fox, mink and rabbit with smooth leather for a highly commercial look where a little fur goes a long way.

Fur Extremities

Take fur to the extremities with the emerging trend for plush fur hemlines or sleeves, set against a contrasting woven or even knitted body. The look works best when fur and fabric are mixed in tonal combinations rather than sharp colour contrasts. Several designers used the trend to incorporate fur into classics like the trench coat, as seen here at Peter Som, with fox sleeves and fox back panel adding a luxe touch to a timeless silhouette.

Modernist Fur

There was a simple less-is-more look emerging on the New York runways, championed by designers like Reed Krakoff and Phillip Lim and the trend filtered down to fur silhouettes as designers adopted a streamlined approach to understated coat and jacket shapes, even evolving the fur gilet or tabard for another season. It's all about collarless silhouettes, flat front detailing, exposed zips, graphic colour blocking and contrasting fur mixes.

Mix It

This trend highlights a huge sense of confidence in the market as designers used fur in bold textural combinations working contrasting textures together in a collaged melange of long against grooved or shaved, curly piles with dense plush handles and silky flat surfaces with the volume of full pile pelts. The message is in the mix but the overriding statement is to allow the full beauty of contrasting furs to shine through.

One For The Boys

It's not all about the girls next winter, there is a subtle androgynous look coming through on the runways as designers took fur into the realms of masculine tailoring, from structured single breasted jackets to tuxedo hybrids, as seen at Alexander Wang. And let's not forget the boys, with fur adding a luxe touch to wardrobe staples like the reefer jacket, the biker and the simple blazer.