Fashion Commentary

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London - Catwalk-Trends Fall 2013 & Winter 2014

 

Catwalk-Trends Fall 2013 & Winter 2014

 

Paul Smith

Paul Smith, or should we say Sir Paul Smith, delivered an array of colorful, sporty looks that will make him a fan favorite of those who love 80s style.

 

 

His collection, as always, was wisely edited to showcase his masterful handling of color and textile choices, cuts and silhouettes. But his outerwear raised the bar at London Fashion Week Fall 2013, reintroducing clever shearlings. He showed just how sporty and chic a shearling jacket can look. LOVED THEM.

 

 

Richard Nicoll

Richard Nicoll’s collection was a lovely selection of streamlined 90′s daywear looks that screamed “modernist.” Everything was elegantly nuanced from his choice of muted colors to the simplicity of his rich textiles. This collection won’t make any editorial noise, but will surely make registers ring.

 

 

What surprised many in the audience was his herringbone patterned mink separates. Their thickness worked well with the various light wools he used and gave the fur fashions an unexpected informal coziness.

 

 

Holly Fulton

Holly Fulton’s collection was a print extravaganza with quirky references ranging from Holly Hobbie patchwork to Art Déco inspired Pop Art-ish designs to scribbling signature patterns. The work put in these prints was substantial and read rather well, due in part to the color palette of red, grey, white and black.

 

 

The streamlined silhouettes and proportions helped to reign in the visual extravagance which, once paired with fur fashion touches that softened the overall tonality, helped to make this London Fashion Week Fall 2013 collection more appealing to a larger audience.

 

 

Mulberry

Mulberry is looking at children’s literature again. This time “The Wind in the Willows“ influenced a line-up full of heavy wool outerwear with its fair share of check prints.

 

 

The boxy design emphasized the upper-torso, especially focusing on rounded shoulder details. Last season fluffy “Wild Things” fur references morphed into more geometric placements from neck to upper sleeves and down to skirts. This season Mulberry kept the fur fashion touches black, with a few colorful additions, to enhance the collection’s dramatic flair.

 

 

Temperley

Temperley London channeled Tippi Hedren in Alfred Hitchcock‘s The Birds. There wasn’t anything spooky or uneasy about this collection, which places its inspiration more on Hitchcock’s famous icy blonds than the avian drama.

 

 

The line-up was a superb medley of polished, practical, chic daywear that actually read more New York than London. Fur was used to good effect in the 60s inspired outerwear as a supplementary textile that, when paired with wool, read beautifully and effortlessly chic

 

 

Jasper Conran

Jasper Conran’s latest collection was a lovely minimalist take on the 20s via André Courèges. The selection was great, totally wearable, and still carried a little edgy punch. Mr. Conrad is a pro and knows how to deliver good clothes with enough personality to put them on trend without ever looking trendy.

 

 

 

His work with pony was well executed and he brought out a few other fur types, especially lamb, to complement his classic textile choices.

 

 

Lug Von Siga

Lug Von Siga’s collection was an exercise in English historical references camouflaged behind a seemingly modernist aesthetic. From vaguely historical cuts to ton-sur-ton quilting embroidery, the references passed as politely as the models walked.

 

 

The overall look was geometric, if not architectural, with different fabric panels playing with one another while juxtaposing colors and textures. It was an interesting collection. Gul Agis obviously has a point of view and is developing it in front of our eyes

 

 

London: Catwalk-Trends Autumn Winter 2011-12