Fashion Commentary

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Milan - Catwalk-Trends Fall 2013 & Winter 2014

 

Catwalk-Trends Fall 2013 & Winter 2014

 

Armani

Giorgio Armani is a menswear pioneer, so when he decides to channel the Garçonne, his line-up is sure to have more than its fare share of menswear references turned inside-out into lovely feminine creations. That is just what happened chez Armani.

 

 

 

The jackets, of course, were the pièce de résistance and came in a myriad of looks paired with flowing trousers, pleated skirts and evening gowns. Mr. Armani continued the indirect menswear nods with the styling, favoring flat shoes for some looks and an easy layered style. Fur fashion, including broadtail, goat and lamb, punctuated the collection for dramatic effect. The collection, though, could not have been more feminine and refined.

 

 

Ferragamo

Salvatore Ferragamo Fall 2013 delivered a wonderfully modern collection of clean lines and a soupçon of darkness. The collection wasn’t Goth in the least, but these looks had that sleek Italian sensibility.

 

 

Massimiliano Giornetti is really taking the reigns in hands and driving the label in an impressive direction. We can’t stop looking at the outerwear which played so beautifully with geometry, volume, and layering. The line-up’s architectural simplicity was not lost on its audience; it enhanced the intrinsic beauty of each material – fur fashion included – giving way to a collection with impact.

 

 

Emporio Armani

Emporio Armani Fall 2013 is feeling its love for the East and the 1920s. This collection delivered a lovely array of looks that skillfully showed the experimental side of the Emporio Armani machine. Some went as far as crediting the influence of Rei Kawakubo, but Mr. Armani has always favored 17th Japan throughout his career. What made this collection appealing was the softness of its colorful palette and the optimistic mood that transcended down to the proportions.

 

 

 

Fur was added in a variety of treatments and more than a few could easily read as extensions of knitwear. On that note, he even introduced some mohair felt to foil this visual effect.

 

 

Missoni

What to do when you become too often associated with a particular design element? For Missoni Fall 2013, it’s the multicolored knit that is synonymous with anything and everything Missoni (remember the Missoni for Target project?). So, to turn the table around, this collection focused on cuts and lounge-y looks that are expanding on the house’s existing vocabulary.

 

 

Knitwear is often synonymous with comfort, this line-up is showing just how it can be taken a few notches up and still read Missoni. Their luxe shearlings are deliciously cozy and cool. This is a much more fluid collection that is truly full of surprises.

 

 

Jil Sander

Jil Sander Fall 2013 gave us an elegant collection of crisp and effortless chic garments in single tones. Don’t expect roses or Greek keys in this collection, it is a purist’s delight. The outerwear, as usual, was exemplary. Ms. Sander knows a thing or two about producing these ever-so-special pieces.

 

 

There is also a somewhat Adolf Loos approach to her design philosophy and her choice for honest materials. Her short coats in jet-black pony or beaver were as ‘tight’ as design can be.

 

 

Cividini

More than a few collections in Milan read surprisingly Old School sportswear (but with a slightly more tailored Italian handling). And, of course, Cividini was one of them. The collection was impeccable from start to finish with a few twists and turns that gave enough ‘license’ for the other looks to shine in their own right.

 

 

First, the color palette was very elegant, appearing as indirectly neutral. Second, the outerwear was so well conceived that it could be a micro-collection in and of itself. Layering has been manifesting itself in a plethora of looks on both sides of the Atlantic. Cividini played on that idea and interchanged panels of fabrics with fur or leather. The resulting looks were not only timely, but edgy too.

 

 

Just Cavalli

Just Cavalli can’t escape its rock ‘n’ roll DNA, even when applying Himalayan references to the mix. Why would they? This collection showcased Bhutanese prints that looked unexpectedly accomplished with the Rock vibe and even gave the collection a fresh and indelible optimism. There is always something fun about Just Cavalli in the way they flirt with vulgarity.

 

 

Despite their high-jolt vocabulary, the median point in this collection reads young and extroverted as expected, but it is also truthful and self-governing. A few of these unexpected combinations even read a little Napoleonic in mood as well as Warholian in spirit.

 

 

Milan: Catwalk-Trends Autumn Winter 2011-12